THE HOTNUT

ABOUT

The Hotnut is an enhanced tripodal camming device having the simplicity and versatility of a nut coupled with the placement facility of an SLCD.
It really does transform the ‘Old Fiddly’ tripodal of the past into the ‘Unsprung Hero’ of the future.

While the virtues of the tripodal cam nut have been recognised for the last 30 years, conversely notorious has been its ‘Achilles Heel’ of placement (and removal) awkwardness. This shortcoming cannot realistically be downplayed by offsetting it against the nut’s versatile placement scope, when the obvious fact is that protection gear incapable of quick, reliable placement in a fraught climbing situation will probably not get placed – or even considered.

The Hotnut, more than anything, is about confronting and resolving this longstanding problem with the tripodal nut. A solution has proved elusive and long in discovery, but now it is here. Moreover, the innovation is simple in use and carries little or no downside.

FEATURES OVERVIEW

  • Design format based on ‘H’ section providing, low bulk, high strength against cam thrust, and light weight.
  • Design format common over Hotnut product size range, giving similarity of functional performance.
  • Low cam angle design, resulting in greater nut holding security once set in place.
  • Double-rounded nose profile fundamental to optimum camming performance in parallel and flared placements.
  • Narrow head width enabling shallow placements.
  • Simple, minimal and effective, giving total remote manipulation control of nut body in all orientations of placement.
  • Transforms cam nut into a precision protection device, capable of speedy, single-handed application.
  • Soft feel pliable handling – no springs or associated rigid hardware.
  • Rig presence completely neutral to protection function of placed nut.
  • Automatic pre-disposition to cam mode (Fig.1).
  • Remote cam retraction (Fig.2)
  • Remote cam expansion (Fig.3)
  • Remote cam positional finger/thumb pinch-locking for nut placement/removal (Fig.4)

Note Manual override into ‘wedging’ mode not recommended (See Hotnut Supplementary Text)

RIG IN ACTION

Fig. 1 Auto Cam Mode

obviates pre-placement task

Fig. 5 Placement, Step One

“size” locked nut to placement

Fig. 2 Retract

gives smaller setting size

Fig. 6 Placement, Step Two

set unlocked nut in place

Fig.3 Expand

gives bigger setting size

Fig. 7 Removal, Step One

rotationally prime “lever”

Fig. 4 Pinch lock

retains set size

Fig. 8 Removal, Step Two

lock and reverse “lever”

Fig. 1 Auto Cam Mode

obviates pre-placement task

Fig. 2 Retract

gives smaller setting size

Fig.3 Expand

gives bigger setting size

Fig. 4 Pinch lock

retains set size

Fig. 5 Placement, Step One

“size” locked nut to placement

Fig. 6 Placement, Step Two

set unlocked nut in place

Fig. 7 Removal, Step One

rotationally prime “lever”

Fig. 8 Removal, Step Two

lock and reverse “lever”

Fig. 1 Auto Cam Mode

obviates pre-placement task

Fig. 2 Retract

gives smaller setting size

Fig.3 Expand

gives bigger setting size

Fig. 4 Pinch lock

retains set size

Fig. 5 Placement, Step One

“size” locked nut to placement

Fig. 6 Placement, Step Two

set unlocked nut in place

Fig. 7 Removal, Step One

rotationally prime “lever”

Fig. 8 Removal, Step Two

lock and reverse “lever”

Placement Summary

The sequence below gives reliable placement, and becomes automatic with use:…

  1. Select Hotnut, fully retract cam, pinch-lock, and present to crack.
  2. Maintaining lock, rotate Hotnut about lock point to increase presented size, so that nut makes 3-point contact with crack at placement (Fig. 5).*
  3. Keeping side pressure on Hotnut nose via sling/slider, release lock, and pull firmly on sling below slider to set nut (Fig. 6).
  4. Test security of placement by gently transversely wiggling looped end of sling. There should be no resulting transverse rotational movement of the Hotnut body.

*If the placement is such that there is insufficient rotational space available to execute this procedure, remove the lock, partially expand Hotnut set size above the fully retracted (see Fig. 3), re-lock, and repeat steps 2, 3, and 4.
See also Supplementary text

Removal Summary

The sequence below gives reliable removal, and becomes automatic with use:

  1. Loosen the placed nut by either transverse wiggling or, if nut well set, by alternately tapping top/bottom of accessible Hotnut lobe face to release the friction bond.
  2. Rotate unlocked sling/slider towards Hotnut nose, and re-apply pinch-lock (Fig. 7). Then rotate locked Hotnut about lock point in reverse direction, retracting the nut clear of the placement, and remove whilst retaining lock (Fig. 8).
    See also Supplementary text

TECHNICAL INFO

HOTNUT 1 PRODUCT SPECIFICATION DATA

 

  • Crack size range mm: 23.0/29.4
  • Nut width mm: 26
  • Sewn nylon tape sling mm : 265 approx. length / 15 width
  • Rated strength kN: 10
  • Weight inc. sling approx. g: 36

HOTNUT 2 PRODUCT SPECIFICATION DATA

 

  • Crack size range mm: 29.4/37.6
  • Nut width mm: 26
  • Sewn nylon tape sling mm : 265 approx. length / 15 width
  • Rated strength kN: —
  • Weight inc. sling approx. g: 48

HOTNUT 3 PRODUCT SPECIFICATION DATA

 

  • Crack size range mm: 37.6/48.0
  • Nut width mm: 26
  • Sewn nylon tape sling mm : 265 approx. length / 15 width
  • Rated strength kN: —
  • Weight inc. sling approx. g: 61

HOTNUT 4 PRODUCT SPECIFICATION DATA

 

  • Crack size range mm: 48.0/61.2
  • Nut width mm: 38.1
  • Sewn nylon tape sling mm : — approx. length / 25 width
  • Rated strength kN: —
  • Weight inc. sling approx. g: —

HOTNUT 5 PRODUCT SPECIFICATION DATA

 

  • Crack size range mm: 61.2/78.2
  • Nut width mm: 38.1
  • Sewn nylon tape sling mm : — approx. length / 25 width
  • Rated strength kN: —
  • Weight inc. sling approx. g: —

HOTNUT 6 PRODUCT SPECIFICATION DATA

 

  • Crack size range mm: 78.2/99.8
  • Nut width mm: 38.1
  • Sewn nylon tape sling mm : — approx. length / 25 width
  • Rated strength kN: —
  • Weight inc. sling approx. g: —

Additional technical info

  1. Hotnuts are made and tested to the requirements of ‘chock’ Standard UIAA-124/EN-12270.*
  2. Hotnuts are produced as a one-piece solid body in Alloy 7075 T6
  3. The specified rated strength is that for Hotnut use as a camming device.

*Except that strength testing is carried out in a rough surfaced parallel-sided crack as per ‘SLCD’ Standard UIAA-125/EN-12276, which Downbeat considers more realistic of the actual intended use application of Hotnuts than the smooth-sided inwardly stepped parallel crack of ‘chock’ Standard UIAA-124/EN 12270 as required for strength testing of earlier tripodal camming nuts. Hotnuts can be tested and used with their nose supported by a step, but this clearly represents a less demanding test for what is an intended friction device, than a non-stepped parallel crack simulating the main intended use of the Hotnut in actual rock-climbing.
See also Supplementary text